You might think you don't need an amp because you have a 500-watt system in your car, or because your new stereo puts out 40-50 watts a channel. But those are peak wattage ratings, which may boil down to 15 or 20 watts per channel, using the more realistic RMS rating. An amp sends your speakers the power they need to deliver your music with clarity and impact, whether you're using factory speakers or high-performance components. Also low-frequency reproduction requires lots of power, so an amp is an absolute must if you're adding a sub to your system. we offer a varity of amplifiers to suit anyones needs, from the basics just to improve you audio system to comp series to really rock out your bass. Amps are offered in a many different option and from manufacturers such as Pioneer, Rockford Fosgate, American Bass, Kenwood and a few others.
An amplifier is classified according to its circuit design and the way its output stages are powered. Although some may assume that for every portion of the input signal there is corresponding 100% output from the amplifier, power dissipation (in the form of heat) and distortion of the audio signal are two key factors in determining the efficiency and fidelity of an amplifier. Each class has its own performance characteristics and advantages. These are some of the most comman classes of amps.
Class A amplifiers are desirable for the high quality of their sound, but, because of the configuration of its transistors, a pure class A amplifier is inefficient and runs very hot. This is because even when there is no audio signal, the output transistors always have current running through them. The current flowing through the output transistors (with no audio signal) causes the amp to heat up unnecessarily, and "waste" input energy. Most car amplifiers that boast "Class A" circuitry are really Class A/Class AB hybrids. The output transistors of Class B amplifiers actually turn off for half of every signal cycle. This improves efficiency and saves energy, but introduces some distortion during the switching periods.
Class AB amplifiers also allow current to run through the output transistors when there is no audio signal, but at a much lower level. A class AB amplifier runs cooler, and therefore, more efficiently than a class A, with low distortion and high reliability.
Class D amplifiers use output transistors as switches to control power distribution — the transistors rapidly switch on and off at least twice during every signal cycle. Class D amps boast higher efficiency, produce less heat, and draw less current than traditional Class AB designs. Class D amplifiers produce higher distortion than AB designs due to the high-speed switching on and off of the transistors, but this distortion occurs at frequencies above hearing, and is easily removed by a low-pass filter.
Class A/D amplifiers utilize a Class A input section and a Class D output. Class AB/D amplifiers similarly have Class AB inputs and Class D outputs.
Class BD amps give you the super-efficient design of a Class D amp with the clarity and sound quality of a Class B amp.
Class A BR, "Boosted Rail" amplifier uses capacitors to pump up the amp's internal operating voltage to 24 volts whenever the peak of the output signal exceeds 12 volts, increasing the amplifier's power accordingly. The capacitors recharge every time the signal's wave dips back below 12 volts between peaks.
The best method when matching speakers to amplifiers or vise versa is to use the "RMS" power ratings instead of "Max/Peak" power ratings. It's important to note that most speaker manufactures publish two different power ratings:
Speaker "RMS" Power Rating
The "Nominal" or "RMS" (root-mean-square) rating is the amount of power that can be applied to the speaker under normal circumstances. One of the primary factors that determine the power rating of a speaker is the size of it's voice coil. A speaker with a high power rating uses a large voice coil, allowing more heat to be dissipated and therefore allows more power to be applied to the speaker. Use this power rating to match the speaker's "RMS" capacity to an amplifier's "RMS" output. For example: if your speakers are rated to handle 50 watts RMS each, then select an amplifier that will deliver approximately 50 watts RMS to each speaker.
Speaker "Peak" Power Rating
The second is the "Max" or "Peak" rating which is the maximum amount of power that can be applied for short periods of time without causing damage. If the peak power rating is exceeded for an extended period of time, there is danger of overheating and deforming the voice coil. Do not use this power rating for matching speakers to amplifiers. It is for informational purposes only. Do not match the speaker's RMS power rating to an amplifier's Max/Peak power output. For example: If your speakers are rated to handle 50 Watts RMS each, and you select an amplifier that will deliver 125 watts RMS per speaker, you will likely apply too much power for the speaker to handle. This can cause a voice coil to literally "burn" and possibly "short-out," rendering it inoperable.