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This article was found on the internet news groups and is intended only as a general help guide not an exact perfect method.

   Lets say you have a typical ride with a stock paint job, that is alright, but it does show it’s age with a bit of sun fade, rock chips, and a couple dings here and there............

So you're wanting a new paint job, here are some of the basic steps that will get you there

1...Start removing anything that can be removed that will not get painted, like the bumpers, emblems, chrome trim, lights, and stuff like that.

2...Wash your car.. Use a grease fighting dish soap like dawn

3... Block sand your whole car with 220-320 wet sand paper. Block sanding will not only keep your surface smooth and level, but will also provide tooth for the primer to come, and show you were the low spots are (dings)

4...After block sanding and finding your dings (they will be the only spots left shiny) use a marker or chalk and mark them by drawing a circle at least an inch around them.

5...Get a drill and attach one of those plastic grinding discs, and grind those spots down to metal. you can use a DA sander also

6...Clean off the area, it’s important that it is free of dust and oil

5...Prepare your filler and apply it to the area, then wait for it to cure.

6...After curing, block sand the body filler with 80 - 100 grit dry sand paper until it’s level with the rest of the body.

7...Clean off the area again and check for pinholes in the filler. Also clean off the area were you have rock chips

8...Use a 2 part glazing potty to fill any pin holes in your body work, and the rock chips.

9...level out the glazing putty by lightly block sanding it with 220-320 wet sand paper.

10…wash your car again

11…Roll your ride into your paint booth (or garage, shop, plastic enclosed carport or anywhere else you plan to paint it in)

12… start masking off your windows, and anything else you don’t want to paint that you couldn’t remove.

13… use wheel covers or jack up the car and remove the wheels, and leave it on jack stands

14… wipe down the whole car with a tack cloth to remove any dust

15… wipe down your car again with wax and grease cleaner, (or reducer) and let dry

16… as the cleaner is drying, start mixing up your high build primer, if you have any bodywork on the car it is always a good idea to cover it up in high build primer.

25… Clean out your gun real good wait about 2-3 hours and mix up your clear

26… spray one tack coat of clear followed by 2 to 4 wet coats of clear. (use the same spray pattern of 10-50% overlap) You won’t be able to tell when it flashes, so it’s a good idea to wait between 15 to 30 minutes between coats, or do the touch test.

NOT RECOMMENDED !!! DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!: THE TOUCH TEST....find a spot in the paint that will not be seen when the car is finished, about 15 minutes after spraying your clear, touch this spot with your finger, if it feels sticky or tacky then your ready for the next coat, but if it stringy and some if it clings to your finger as you lift it, then you still need to wait.

27… Clean out your gun REAL GOOD

28… wait at least an hour before removing the masking, then let it sit over night

29…  the next day roll out your ride and let it “bake” in the sun for at least a day

 

Anything below this is optional and is more toward a nice or show car type finish

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Deluxe Paint Job Kit For A Car Or Truck

25+ Factory Pack Colors Available. Included in this kit : 1 Gal. Modified acrylic enamel paint (Can be upgraded to regular acrylic enamel) 1 Pt. of Wet look hardener 2 Qts. of Enamel reducer (not pictured) 3 rolls of automotive masking tape 15 count each of paint sticks & paint strainers 1 each paint sock and disposable paint suit CLICK HERE TO VIEW COLOR CHOICES COLOR CHART Kits Start at $59.50 Plus S&H Other Alternative Colors Are Available With This Kit At An Additional Cost Click Here To See List of Alternative Colors and prices for the kits